Faltz Landscaping - Maintenance


1401 Labar Street, Anchorage, Alaska 99515 907-349-4382

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LANDSCAPE MAINTENANCE

For the do it yourselfer we have provided the following guide. While too vast a field to cover all aspects of maintenance here, this guide will help the home or business owner to understand the basics. Geared toward the newly installed landscape, following its advice will help to protect your landscaping investment.

Trees, shrubs and groundcovers:	Soil moisture Fertilizing Pruning
Seeded Lawns:	Soil moisture Watering Fertilizing Mowing
Sprinkler System

TREES, SHRUBS, AND GROUNDCOVERS

1. MAINTAIN PROPER SOIL MOISTURE

Alaska's climate can be demanding on newly planted landscapes. The durability and beauty of these plants warrants protecting them from the rigors of our extreme weather until they are fully established. First, the root systems must reestablish themselves in their new location. During this process, the soil must not be allowed to dry out, as root damage or plant death could occur. Overly saturated soil is just as detrimental to root development, so do not water too often. Deep watering 2-3 times per week should be adequate during the dry season (spring), and supplemental watering during the late summer and fall may be necessary.

Tip:	On trees with watering berms, fill the berm to the top 3 times per week. Evergreens (Spruce) need to be deep watered in the fall before the ground freezes. Evergreens, especially trees, do use some stored water during the winter, so as soon as the ground thaws in the spring, water deeply and check the soil moisture often.
Note:	Do not rely on rain to provide deep watering; continue to irrigate trees and shrubs through the rainy season (fall).

2. ROUTINE MAINTENANCE

a. FERTILIZING

Adequate fertilizing was done at the time of planting for the first season, so no additional fertilizer should be added. In Alaska, trees and shrubs should be fertilized in the spring or early summer only. Fertilizer with a ratio of 8/32/16 has proven best.

Tip:

If you fertilize at the end of the spring cleanup process you will be done for the season! Fertilize trees and shrubs growing in the beds by spreading it around the "drip line." In lawns, using fertilizer spikes according to the label directions works best.

b. PRUNING

Spring cleanup is the best time to perform major pruning on most deciduous plants (loose their leaves in winter), except Rose Tree of China and Lilacs. For these two species, wait until their blooming period is over before removing live wood. Broken or dead branches may be removed at any time. Pruning techniques would fill a book, and are therefore to complex to cover here.

Tip:

Purchase a pruning guide, and follow its suggestions to obtain the proper shape and methods for specific species.

SEEDED LAWNS

1. KEEP THE SOIL SURFACE MOIST

Your goal is to keep the seedbed (soil surface) uniformly and continuously moist for the next 21 days, never allowing the seed to become dry. Water evenly, avoiding puddling and runoff. Light, frequent watering is best. Insure that your hose and sprinkler fittings do not leak, as this could displace the grass seed, leaving a bare spot later. If you have an in-ground irrigation system, set the controller for multiple, short duration cycles (2-3 per day). Overnight watering is to be avoided, and no lawn care products should be used at this stage. Germination should begin in 10-14 days.

Tip:

Purchase good-quality hoses and sprinklers and lay them out in a pattern that covers the seedbed in sections, with the female end of the hose along the edge of the area. Use "Y" connectors with shutoffs so that you can move the source-water hose from section to section if necessary.

Note:

Moose are likely to visit your new lawn! Don't be concerned about footprints at this stage, as your goal now is complete germination. Damage can be repaired later. Weather forecasts calling for rain should not be trusted in Alaska in general and never during germination! Resolve to keep the seedbed moist yourself! Other seeds in the soil (weeds) may germinate along with the grass. Do not use any herbicides on the new lawns. Mowing will remove most of the weeds.

2. WATERING FOLLOWING GERMINATION

After the seedbed has become established, your watering method must be changed. Once most of the grass is about 1" to 2" tall, greatly reduce the frequency of watering while increasing the amount of water applied. Continue this trend until you are "deep" watering 1-3 times per week depending on rainfall and general weather conditions.

Tip:

Rain is best when available. Use irrigation as a supplement.

Note:

You can now repair any moose prints by topdressing with topsoil and seed.

3. FERTILIZING NEW AND ESTABLISHED LAWNS

The fertilizer applied with the Hydroseed will be sufficient until the grass reaches about 2" in height. Fertilizer properly applied now will allow the grass to continue to grow and thicken. Otherwise, it will stop growing, remain thin, and turn yellow. Although their are differing opinions, our experience has shown favorable result by applying ten (10) pounds of 16-16-16 fertilizer per 1,000 square feet of area. This must be followed by a deep, thorough watering or grass could be damaged.

Tip:

Use a "broadcast" spreader to apply fertilizer. Based on the manufacturer's settings and the fertilizer label, apply 1/2 of the fertilizer in one direction (5 lbs./1,000 sq. ft.) and then apply 1/2 of the fertilizer in the opposite direction (90° to the first direction of travel). This will help avoid two problems: applying to heavy, which may burn the grass, or missing areas, which will cause the grass to yellow.

Note:

Once the lawn is fully established (routine mowing started), following fertilizing schedules will maintain lawn health effectively;

May 15 - 50 lbs. Agricultural lime per 1,000 sq. ft.
10 lbs. 16-16-16 fertilizer per 1,000 sq. ft.

June 30 - 10 lbs. 16-16-16 fertilizer per 1,000 sq. ft.

August 15 - 5 lbs. 8-32-16 fertilizer per 1,000 sq. ft.

For the perfectionist with enough time available, fertilize every 21 days with 6-7 lbs. of 16-16-16 / 1,000 sq. ft. beginning May 1-15. The first application should include 50 lbs. of lime / 1,000 sq. ft. Make your last application mid-August using 5 lbs. 8-32-16 / 1,000 sq. ft.

Note:

On newly hydroseed lawns, the above schedule may vary depending on when it was applied. On established lawns, the above schedule will provide excellent results regardless of establishment method (Hydroseed, handseed, and sod).

Note:

At the beginning of the second season, raking out leaves and dead grass will benefit the lawn by allowing air to penetrate the soil. Mechanical dethatching may be needed in subsequent springs to remove any build up of the thatch layer.

Note:

Avoid walking on your snow-covered lawn, as damaging ice will build up leaving bare spots in the spring. stockpiling snow on lawn areas increases the chance of "snow mold" during "break-up", which will also cause damage.

4. MOWING NEW AND ESTABLISHED LAWNS

Probably the single most important cultural practice in lawn maintenance is mowing. You should keep in mind that the natural mature height of most grass species is taller that the height we cut them. The grass plant is forced to live at a much lower height in order to fit its intended use. Therefore, mowing is unnatural because it upsets the natural growth patterns of the plant. Because of this, you should resolve to keep your lawn as tall as possible while still achieving the desired appearance, especially considering that lower heights increase the need for water and nutrients, while also increasing susceptibility to disease.

Your hand seeded or Hydroseeded lawn will be ready for its first mowing when the grass blades reach 4" - 6" in height. You should mow with a well-maintained lawnmower adjusted to cut the grass 2 1/2" to 3 1/2" in height. The first mowing should not be performed when the soil is wet. Allow the soil to dry out a couple of days before the first mowing, and only use extremely sharp lawnmower blades. Grass clippings must be removed from the lawn either by a mower with a "bagger" or by raking.
Established lawns, regardless of installation method (sodded, handseeded, or hydroseeded), should be mowed at least once per week during the growing season. Height should be maintained between 2 1/2" and 3 1/2". No more than 1/3 of the grass blade length should be removed during any one cutting, because removing more will cause cultural stress to the grass plant.

Tip:

Purchase a second blade from your dealer for your lawnmower model. This way, you will always have a sharp blade available when needed, especially when you must cut wet, or taller than normal grass. If you must cut wet grass, go slower than normal, and reduce the width of the cut. This will help prevent the wet clippings from clogging the chute or bagger.

Note:

Lawnmowers can be very dangerous for the operator and any people or pets in the immediate area. Read and follow the Operator's Manual provided with your mower. Always comply with the safety and maintenance recommendations of the manufacturer. Be alert and use common sense!

We hope this guide will assist you in maintaining your new landscaping. As it cannot cover every aspect of landscape maintenance, feel free to call us should you have any questions. Our staff will be happy to assist you in finding the information you need.